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When curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. However, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This honour has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble place securing such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary achievement.